by Lucy | Mar 15, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I’ve been obsessed with jeans lately. So, when I found this denim for three dollars a yard I had to buy it. It’s 2% spandex and 98% cotton, a charcoal gray color, with an extraordinary amount of sizing in it. It sounded like sandpaper when they were cutting it at the store. I came home and soaked it in vinegar, baking soda, and detergent. It is a lot softer now than it was when I brought it home, but I think working with it will make it even softer. Given the texture, I’m going for Boyfriend jeans this time.
My favorite jeans vaporized. Not really, but they were so worn out the butt fell completely out one night. So, I’ve become obsessed with making the perfect pair of jeans. Because I am a tightwad and it’s so challenging! I recently completed a pair of jeggings.
These took me a very long time, mostly because I’m in search of the perfect jeans. I am almost finished…they are wearable, but need more topstitching. I’m giving them a trial run today. So far, so good! The main problem with these is they have too much stretch in them. Never a bad thing right? Well, unless….that’s not the fit you were hoping for making.
During the experimentation process I learned quite a few tips. I’ll get around to sharing these with you. But right now I want to talk about why jeans get such a bad rep. I know why they cost so much. There is tons and tons of detail that goes into the making of jeans. Think about all that topstitching, even on the belt loops! I used an entire spool of thread on one pair. I didn’t even use the same color for the bobbin. Which reminds me, I need to purchase some more of that thread so I can finish the little pesky details.
When you go shopping for the fabric pay close attention to the weight. I think the heavier the better, think Levis denim. But, the 7oz denim I used on my jeggings is mighty comfy. I guess it’s a personal thing. That’s why they make so much money on them. Everyone likes something a little different.
I’m going to tackle the fabric now, with scissors. I’ll keep you updated on the process with pictures and stories about my mishaps and victories.
![Sewing with Knits….a story of trial and error]()
by Lucy | Mar 12, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I had been working with knits for about six months when I finished this skirt. I felt very accomplished. For the first time ever, people liked my product and commented about how much they liked it. I felt FAMOUS! Let me tell you, this didn’t happen overnight. Lots of things can go wrong when sewing with knit fabric. Hopefully my mishaps will be a blessing in disguise and help you avoid those same issues.
1. Knit can be two way or four way stretch. This doesn’t really matter, it all stretches right? I used to think that too. Then I spent about an hour or two making the ultimate tee shirt. It looked amazing! But, I sewed it with the stretch going vertical instead of horizontal. In case you’ve never made this mistake, it means I couldn’t fit into the shirt. It had no stretch at all in the areas that need to stretch. But, I could probably pull it down far enough to wear it as a dress. Funny, unless it’s your shirt. haha
2. Leggings work best in a four way stretch. Yes, you can make pants to your heart’s delight in two way stretch fabric. But, chances are the knees will bag throughout the day. No, that is in no way flattering. A four way stretch ensures the fabric maintains a proper fit all over your legs. It looks very professional. Maybe no one will even know you made them yourself. Okay seriously, no one will consider you made it yourself unless you tell them.
3. Heming Isn’t really an issue, or so they say. Most people do not hem their knit garments. To me, this never really made sense. I don’t find clothing at the GAP that is not hemmed. So, I have always hemmed my garments. I’ve tried several ways.
- Rolled hem, this is a hem created using a rolled hem or cording foot. This works well for some knits. I have found it works best with those containing a little rayon. I tried it recently with jersey. This did not work so well.
- Double hem, is primarily used in the ready to wear industry. Lots of articles and websites will tell you this cannot be done without a double needle. Simply not true! I have done them since day one with my normal sewing machine. When it’s time to hem use the standard 5/8″ seam, then go over it again using the 3/8″ seam. The same look is achieved. Now, when you tell people, because you will want them to know, you made this. They will not believe you! Added BONUS, no extra equipment required.
- Cut edge hem, again this is one I do not use because I’ve never seen it in ready to wear and it makes me self conscious. If you like it or need to put that just finished garment on and head out for the evening. By all means do it. It is a time saver for sure. This would probably be easiest to get away with when using tissue knits.
by Lucy | Mar 11, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation
UPDATE: This jeans blog was previously published on WordPress.com. Since the time of this blog I have completed a pair I’m pretty satisfied with. I need to get back in there and perfect it though. The fit is perfect, I have since purchased jean topstitching thread and Levi’s buttons. I have produced the perfect fit for me in a distressed jean short/cut off. I love them. There is nothing in the world better than a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Please continue reading and I’ll write a new post on this topic soon.
Jeans, who ever thinks about them? As Americans we purchase them, wear them, break them in, break them down, wear them out, and then discard or recycle them. This search began with my penny pinching ways. I refuse to pay three times the cost it takes to make a pair of pants!
So, we know the rest of the story. For weeks I have been studying the construction, fit, and trademark qualities of jeans. I started with a legging pattern I liked. From that point I’ve added appropriate top stitching, yoke, and back pockets. My Goal is to draft a pattern specific to my needs. This will become the LUCY LOU….as time and trends pass, the pattern will get updates. The basic fit will remain the same.
At this point, I’m very close to the finished product. Isn’t it ironic, my jeans won’t be complete until the appropriate distressing and personal touches occur? What began as a simple leggings pattern has transformed into fake or faux jeans. It has been a fun and enlightening process. I would be lying if I said it was quick.
I have learned several things:
- the pattern doesn’t make it jeans, the topstitching does
- a golden tan thread looks best with dark denim
- yokes….jeans must have a yoke. I’m not sure the purpose other than to allow room for your butt
- making back pockets is quite easy
- front pockets require a different type of lightweight cotton to line them. (mine don’t have any front pockets right now …. that could change)
- my pattern is out of stock although there are loads of other leggings patterns out there that I am sure could be altered into the perfect jeans for anyone
Well, it’s time to get back to the studio. Until next time….ENJOY!
