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by Dave | Apr 5, 2015 | Beginner Tips, Blog, Knit Tips, Lucy's Sewing Lab, Tools and Technique
Knits are very on trend currently. They are so popular one might say it’s a revolution of knits, they seem to be taking over the fashion industry. I really don’t think anyone minds either. They are comfortable, wear well, and require little maintenance. As a Fashion and Psychology Major, I have this need, desire, drive to know all there is to know about fashion. Textiles have always had me intrigued. How can cotton and poly blend together and create so many different fabrics? Why is double knit in 2015 completely different than the fabric of the same name in the 1970s? Why do fabrics behave so differently? The questions are endless.
I feel it’s the evolution of textiles. Think about when all clothing was made of cotton. I cannot imagine wearing clothing without at least a little stretch. That sounds horrible to me. I remember fashions trends resulting in new social rules. NO SHIRT NO SHOES NO SERVICE. As a child of the 70s this was devastating. I did not go topless, just to be clear haha. I did not like and still do not like shoes though.
Knit is a good example of a fabric with a personality that has evolved over the years. I started sewing my clothes in the 1980s. Knit was one of my favorite fabrics. I love the way it feels, or the hand of the fabric. I never considered it as a difficult fabric to work with. But, as I got back into sewing earlier this year, the internet is FULL of techniques for sewing with knit. Threads Magazine defines slinky knit, jersey knit, and stretch velvet as moderately difficult to sew with. Everything else is considered easy by this magazine.
When sewing, how do you choose which knit is the perfect match for your pattern? On the back of the pattern there is usually an area that says, “must stretch from here to here” To determine the amount of stretch use a single layer of the fabric on the crossgrain. I borrowed this info graphic from Threads Magazine to better explain the crossgrain of fabric. Simply place the fabric on the measuring device printed on the pattern envelope. Then pull to stretch the fabric comparing the stretch to the ruler. If it has enough stretch it is suitable for the pattern. If not, keep looking until you find a material that is suitable. If you really love the fabric, then by all means adjust the pattern to work with the fabric. How to adjust the pattern will be discussed in another blog.
by Lucy | Mar 15, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I did it! I attacked the denim with scissors. I’ll lead you through the progression of sewing boyfriend jeans. I took a jegging pattern I have used before and used that as a base. I added an inch all the way around, in hopes of creating the ultimate pattern for Boyfriend jeans. I couldn’t wait to sew these pieces of denim together. It was wonderful, watching my creation come to life. I tried them on, they fit well. But…..as I was getting ready to sew the two legs together, I realized they didn’t fit together the way they should. You know, the way they should fit together to make jeans. I had sewn the inseam to the outer seam. UGH! This was not going to work. I didn’t have jeans, I had a huge mess, sewn together with care.
My seam ripper and I have become close today. I took those wonderful jeans, and ripped them apart. So, here I sit, ready for round two with that fabric. Hopefully this time….I’ll have a result that resembles boyfriend jeans?
If you are not as adventurous as I am there are plenty of blogs out about upcycling to create boyfriend jeans. I have yet to finish these jeans, with fall right around the corner, I may just be jumping on the upcycle bandwagon for boyfriend jeans.
Until next time…ENJOY
by Lucy | Mar 15, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I’ve been obsessed with jeans lately. So, when I found this denim for three dollars a yard I had to buy it. It’s 2% spandex and 98% cotton, a charcoal gray color, with an extraordinary amount of sizing in it. It sounded like sandpaper when they were cutting it at the store. I came home and soaked it in vinegar, baking soda, and detergent. It is a lot softer now than it was when I brought it home, but I think working with it will make it even softer. Given the texture, I’m going for Boyfriend jeans this time.
My favorite jeans vaporized. Not really, but they were so worn out the butt fell completely out one night. So, I’ve become obsessed with making the perfect pair of jeans. Because I am a tightwad and it’s so challenging! I recently completed a pair of jeggings.
These took me a very long time, mostly because I’m in search of the perfect jeans. I am almost finished…they are wearable, but need more topstitching. I’m giving them a trial run today. So far, so good! The main problem with these is they have too much stretch in them. Never a bad thing right? Well, unless….that’s not the fit you were hoping for making.
During the experimentation process I learned quite a few tips. I’ll get around to sharing these with you. But right now I want to talk about why jeans get such a bad rep. I know why they cost so much. There is tons and tons of detail that goes into the making of jeans. Think about all that topstitching, even on the belt loops! I used an entire spool of thread on one pair. I didn’t even use the same color for the bobbin. Which reminds me, I need to purchase some more of that thread so I can finish the little pesky details.
When you go shopping for the fabric pay close attention to the weight. I think the heavier the better, think Levis denim. But, the 7oz denim I used on my jeggings is mighty comfy. I guess it’s a personal thing. That’s why they make so much money on them. Everyone likes something a little different.
I’m going to tackle the fabric now, with scissors. I’ll keep you updated on the process with pictures and stories about my mishaps and victories.
by Lucy | Mar 14, 2015 | Blog, Inspiration, Lucy's Sewing Lab
Nothing in the world is worse than not feeling inspired to sew. You know, the urge to sew is there, but the sewing inspiration is somewhere else. At those times, no matter how hard I try, I cannot even find a source for inspiration. It’s like a holiday and all the malls are locked tight. I venture over to my fabric and stare at it, still nothing! I surf the web, still nothing! It feels like one of those times you have an extra $100 or so to blow on clothing at the mall and there is not one single thing you want to try on, much less take home. But, if you went to the same stores dead broke you would find an entire wardrobe you are dying to have money to take home with you.
This is the area I’m going to put all the things I find when I’m dead broke but dying for something new. I’ll stash them here, for safekeeping, hopefully avoiding the whole not feeling inspired thing. Some stuff may feel vague to you but for me it has some meaning, however cryptic. Possibly by looking through my stuff you’ll also feel some type of inspiration. Feel free to comment when you do. You never know who you may be helping.
by Lucy | Mar 13, 2015 | Blog, Lucy's Sewing Lab
It’s the world wide web….obviously there are more resources out there than anyone can use. I did a version of this blog when I first started sewing. My opinion of the best sewing blogs has evolved. This is an update to that list from last year. In no particular order, of course.
- Colette– more information than can be taken in, great blog
- The Renegade Seamstress– great tutorials
- Daily Seam– always new information
- Fitting– a textbook online
- Clothing Patterns 101 – this site is amazing because they show you how to modify patterns to your specificity.
- Unsung Sewing Patterns– trip through the decades
- Sewing Parts Online – videos of everything any seamstress wannabe could desire
- Sewing In No Mans Land– Great site for everyone in the family. I especially love the box pleat skirt.
- Olfa – Great projects and articles using their products. I LOVE my Olfa rotary cutter.
- Cloth Habit– lingerie information….great info and lots of it!
- FREE classes from Craftsy, download them and hoard them. Their classes are not usually free.
- FREE patterns– Actually if you didn’t want to buy patterns, she has most things you would want on her site.
- Girl Charlee– This is my very favorite place to buy knit fabric! Okay, honestly I’ve only shopped at this online store. But, I love it! The prices and quality are amazing compared to Joann’s and Hancock Fabric, which are my only other choices.
- Simplicity– Perfect site for storing your fabric and pattern stash. A wonderful reference when you are shopping and cannot remember what you need and what you have.
- Threads Magazine– So, you’re at home and need inspiration or just want to learn new things? I love this site for that reason.
- Mood– I just discovered this one and feel like there is more information than I’ll ever be able to get bored with, they also sell fabric.
- My Pintrest– This probably has the most information of all the sites I’ve listed. It will carry you from beginner to infinity!
- Melly Sews– Tons and tons of tutorials and how to’s
- Inspiration– For those days you want to create because you have this fabric….welll, this site will help on determining what to create.
- Best Sewing Machine Reviews– Unbiased opinions
Of course, this is not all inclusive. Maybe, I’ll choose a blog a week or so to review? Enjoy yourself with this list, I sure do!
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by Lucy | Mar 13, 2015 | Blog, Lucy's Sewing Lab, Tools and Technique
One of the best parts of sewing is learning to use new tools and techniques. A few months ago I found oodles and oodles of presser feet on Amazon. Since I have only previously used the one that comes with your machine I decided to try just ONE new foot to begin with. In December, I received the gathering foot. Let me tell you, if you do not already have this foot and you sew skirts, do yourself a favor and order it! This thing is amazing. You just put your fabric in the little slit and it gathers for you! No more broken thread or messy looking gathering…
Since then, I’ve expanded and purchased the set pictured above. The names of the feet are below and the name is highlighted, click on it. There should be a tutorial video for the use of the foot. ENJOY!
Presser Feet
Top Row
- Cording Foot
- Low Shank Snap-On Ankle
- Blind Hem Foot
- Buttonhole Foot
- seam guide
- Quilting Bar
Bottom Row
- Zig-Zag Foot
- Straight Stitch Foot
- Overcast Foot
- Zipper Foot
- Rolled Hem Foot
- Button Sewing Foot.
