by Dave | Apr 8, 2015 | Blog, Fitting
Huh? What’s a muslin and why do I need it? What is a sloper? What does any of this have to do with design? I could not believe so many people on the internet knew about these things and I didn’t! I went to school for fashion. It was 30 or so years ago, but, I went. I should know something about these things, right? Oh, yeah, it was fashion marketing. That does make a difference. So, I’ve done some research. I’ve found that I was using all these things and did not even know about it!
A muslin has less to do with muslin fabric than it has to do with preventing a mishap with the beautiful fabric you are dying to make something with. This actually takes practice and a lot of trial and error. I was lucky and didn’t mess anything up or actually need to use a muslin until I had gotten pretty confident in my sewing. I didn’t take risks. Boring! I make “wearable” muslins. Mainly because, my time is precious. But, a little more because I am cheap and do not want to waste my expensive ($6 a yard fabric). I buy flawed fabric online for under two dollars. I find it at Girl Charlee online and Walmart locally. I use these because I don’t feel guilty messing up my garments. I tend to adjust the pattern as I sew instead of when I cut. I’m just too excited for new clothes! I try the clothing on and then add fabric to make it fit, or make the seams bigger to make the fit better.
Slopers are very confusing to me. I have never in my life heard that word. I have always called it a base pattern. The definition of a sloper is a pattern without a seam allowance. The same site I found that information on also said only nubes use this term, if you are with catty people they will probably laugh at you. So, having said all that. I use two of my favorite patterns for pants and tops. I make a fabric bodice or pants form out of some discarded fabric. I try to keep it in a place readily available. Then, when I’m dreaming of this cool idea for sleeves, pant rise or flare, neckline or any other component of my clothing. I pull out the bodice, and add a few inches for gathering, make the neckline higher or whatever I’m dreaming of trying. But, I don’t call it a “sloper” I’ve always called it a bodice or a pant pattern. So, combining the two sloper and muslin you are able to design your own clothing. BAM!
Enjoy your life!
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by Dave | Apr 8, 2015 | Blog, Inspiration, Lucy's Sewing Lab
Do you realize this is the LAST season of Mad Men? McCalls knows and are preparing for us to go mad over retro patterns. I love retro and mod clothing. I have a few patterns in my own collection. A quick search on Pinterest reveals a frenzy! Even before I did a little searching for this blog I have been obsessed with the whole look of Mad Men. I just did not realize until I plugged those words into Pinterest how popular the show is. You see, I just don’t get out much anymore. lol I love the looks, it reminds me of childhood. That’s how the grown ups dressed. With that in mind, I’m not sure I’m grown up enough to don these looks. Admit it, some of those clothes are pretty scandalous. Maybe it’s fashion that created the free love era and not free love that created fashion?
“Mad Style: Feminine patterns and fabrics—a touch of lace, a sweet bow on a blouse, or a flowy dress—keep your wardrobe classic and effortlessly pretty. The trick to not looking too girlish or 1950s housewife is to keep the shape of each piece modern (try a structured blazer or pencil skirt) or to add an alluring touch: Channel Joan’s va-va-voom appeal with ladylike fabrics tucked into body-hugging shapes” a quote from The Muse. And they were kind enough to add pictures in their story. It’s not hard to recreate those looks, is it? Not when the big pattern companies are rereleasing their vintage patterns. That makes it pretty easy to become a Mad Man fashionista.
Butterick Patterns has a new Retro section. B4790 is one of those patterns, a wrap dress.
I think this looks like something Betty Draper would wear. I might wear it too, if I made it. I’m sure this isn’t the last you’ll hear of Mad Men until the season ends. I’m sure this blog will be mentioning it again, soon. I’ll leave you with this added inspiration 
Enjoy!
by Dave | Apr 8, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
Determining the fabric for clothing can be confusing. Finding a pattern isn’t that hard to do, right? Walk into the store, browse the book, pick a pattern. The process of fabric shopping is entirely another process which can take quite awhile. Hopefully, this blog post will help in determining the type of fabric to choose.
Probably the easiest thing to do is to look at the back of the pattern. It will have a list of recommended fabric for the garment. So, what if you do not like to sew or wear the fabric the manufacturer recommends? Through the process of trial and error, I have found the following list to be pretty helpful. Some of the suggestions came from Threads Magazine, while the others are personal preference through trial and error.
Pants: Depending on the style the following list works
- Linen
- Stretch poplin
- Denim
- Cotton Lycra (4 way stretch)
- Fleece
- Jersey
Shirts, blouses, and tee shirts
- Jersey Knit
- Interlock Knit
- Sweatshirt fleece
- Cotton Voile
- Rayon Challis
- Double gauze
- Silk
- Chambray
- Cotton lawn
- Linen
- Flannel
- Sweater Knit
Skirts
- Knits, all varieties depending on the pattern and the desired drape
- Cotton Lawn
- Stretch cottons
- Rayon Challis
- Denim
- Linen
Dresses
- Knit
- Cotton Lawn
- Ponte Knit
- Rayon Challis
- Double Gauze
- Silk
- Satin
- Lace (with a lining of course)
- Wool
Loungewear
- Rayon Knit
- Interlock Knit
- Jersey Knit
- Fleece
- Stretch French Terry
- Silk
- Satin
- Flannel
by Lucy | Apr 7, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation
I remember when I wanted to start sewing again and purchased my first computerized machine. Oh, and while I’m here I better pick up a few things. Thrifty sewing was not a part of my vocabulary, yet. This nifty sewing kit (ended up being a huge waste of money), some needles (thank goodness they fit), oh and I need this pincushion (it didn’t matter that the little cheesy sewing kit already had a pincushion.) I was so excited! I couldn’t wait to make something.
Things took a slightly different turn once I got home and realized I didn’t have fabric. I ran into my room and snatched up the first castoff clothing I could find. I had to sew! I practiced making straight lines. Okay, this was fun for a few minutes. I wanted to MAKE something real! So, off I went to the local fabric store. I wish I knew then the things I’m going to tell you now.
1.Be THRIFTY! Shop the remnant pile. But, know your prices, just because it’s in the pile doesn’t mean it isn’t somewhere else in the store for a lower price. A sale doesn’t mean the fabric is fairly priced.
- Set a price limit in your head and don’t pay over that amount for fabric unless you just cannot go home without it.
- Buy fabrics at Walmart at the lowest price possible. Usually around $2 a yard
- Use Walmart fabric to practice. Then move on to the fabric you are dying to use.
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Do not skimp on quality thread. You will regret it.
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Never, ever, pay full price for a pattern. Most patterns go on sale for around one to two dollars. Just wait and plan your shopping trips.
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Shop your closet. YouTube has wonderful videos on refashioning.
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Save coupons and stack as many as possible each shopping trip. Ask if they take competitors coupons.
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Do not buy the magazines. You can read them online. If you search hard enough you can usually find the patterns or some close to the ones in the magazine for free online.
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When notions go on sale, stock up! Buy more than you think you will ever use.
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The expensive scissors, rotary blade, cutting boards are worth the extra money. But, do not pay full price! These things go on sale too.
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Free patterns! You can find them online. Also, they are hanging in your closet. Your best fitting tee shirt is the perfect base for any other shirt you want to make.
Most of all….ENJOY!
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by Dave | Apr 5, 2015 | Beginner Tips, Blog, Knit Tips, Lucy's Sewing Lab, Tools and Technique
Knits are very on trend currently. They are so popular one might say it’s a revolution of knits, they seem to be taking over the fashion industry. I really don’t think anyone minds either. They are comfortable, wear well, and require little maintenance. As a Fashion and Psychology Major, I have this need, desire, drive to know all there is to know about fashion. Textiles have always had me intrigued. How can cotton and poly blend together and create so many different fabrics? Why is double knit in 2015 completely different than the fabric of the same name in the 1970s? Why do fabrics behave so differently? The questions are endless.
I feel it’s the evolution of textiles. Think about when all clothing was made of cotton. I cannot imagine wearing clothing without at least a little stretch. That sounds horrible to me. I remember fashions trends resulting in new social rules. NO SHIRT NO SHOES NO SERVICE. As a child of the 70s this was devastating. I did not go topless, just to be clear haha. I did not like and still do not like shoes though.
Knit is a good example of a fabric with a personality that has evolved over the years. I started sewing my clothes in the 1980s. Knit was one of my favorite fabrics. I love the way it feels, or the hand of the fabric. I never considered it as a difficult fabric to work with. But, as I got back into sewing earlier this year, the internet is FULL of techniques for sewing with knit. Threads Magazine defines slinky knit, jersey knit, and stretch velvet as moderately difficult to sew with. Everything else is considered easy by this magazine.
When sewing, how do you choose which knit is the perfect match for your pattern? On the back of the pattern there is usually an area that says, “must stretch from here to here” To determine the amount of stretch use a single layer of the fabric on the crossgrain. I borrowed this info graphic from Threads Magazine to better explain the crossgrain of fabric. Simply place the fabric on the measuring device printed on the pattern envelope. Then pull to stretch the fabric comparing the stretch to the ruler. If it has enough stretch it is suitable for the pattern. If not, keep looking until you find a material that is suitable. If you really love the fabric, then by all means adjust the pattern to work with the fabric. How to adjust the pattern will be discussed in another blog.
