by Lucy | Mar 15, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I did it! I attacked the denim with scissors. I’ll lead you through the progression of sewing boyfriend jeans. I took a jegging pattern I have used before and used that as a base. I added an inch all the way around, in hopes of creating the ultimate pattern for Boyfriend jeans. I couldn’t wait to sew these pieces of denim together. It was wonderful, watching my creation come to life. I tried them on, they fit well. But…..as I was getting ready to sew the two legs together, I realized they didn’t fit together the way they should. You know, the way they should fit together to make jeans. I had sewn the inseam to the outer seam. UGH! This was not going to work. I didn’t have jeans, I had a huge mess, sewn together with care.
My seam ripper and I have become close today. I took those wonderful jeans, and ripped them apart. So, here I sit, ready for round two with that fabric. Hopefully this time….I’ll have a result that resembles boyfriend jeans?
If you are not as adventurous as I am there are plenty of blogs out about upcycling to create boyfriend jeans. I have yet to finish these jeans, with fall right around the corner, I may just be jumping on the upcycle bandwagon for boyfriend jeans.
Until next time…ENJOY
by Lucy | Mar 15, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I’ve been obsessed with jeans lately. So, when I found this denim for three dollars a yard I had to buy it. It’s 2% spandex and 98% cotton, a charcoal gray color, with an extraordinary amount of sizing in it. It sounded like sandpaper when they were cutting it at the store. I came home and soaked it in vinegar, baking soda, and detergent. It is a lot softer now than it was when I brought it home, but I think working with it will make it even softer. Given the texture, I’m going for Boyfriend jeans this time.
My favorite jeans vaporized. Not really, but they were so worn out the butt fell completely out one night. So, I’ve become obsessed with making the perfect pair of jeans. Because I am a tightwad and it’s so challenging! I recently completed a pair of jeggings.
These took me a very long time, mostly because I’m in search of the perfect jeans. I am almost finished…they are wearable, but need more topstitching. I’m giving them a trial run today. So far, so good! The main problem with these is they have too much stretch in them. Never a bad thing right? Well, unless….that’s not the fit you were hoping for making.
During the experimentation process I learned quite a few tips. I’ll get around to sharing these with you. But right now I want to talk about why jeans get such a bad rep. I know why they cost so much. There is tons and tons of detail that goes into the making of jeans. Think about all that topstitching, even on the belt loops! I used an entire spool of thread on one pair. I didn’t even use the same color for the bobbin. Which reminds me, I need to purchase some more of that thread so I can finish the little pesky details.
When you go shopping for the fabric pay close attention to the weight. I think the heavier the better, think Levis denim. But, the 7oz denim I used on my jeggings is mighty comfy. I guess it’s a personal thing. That’s why they make so much money on them. Everyone likes something a little different.
I’m going to tackle the fabric now, with scissors. I’ll keep you updated on the process with pictures and stories about my mishaps and victories.
by Lucy | Mar 14, 2015 | Blog, Inspiration, Lucy's Sewing Lab
Nothing in the world is worse than not feeling inspired to sew. You know, the urge to sew is there, but the sewing inspiration is somewhere else. At those times, no matter how hard I try, I cannot even find a source for inspiration. It’s like a holiday and all the malls are locked tight. I venture over to my fabric and stare at it, still nothing! I surf the web, still nothing! It feels like one of those times you have an extra $100 or so to blow on clothing at the mall and there is not one single thing you want to try on, much less take home. But, if you went to the same stores dead broke you would find an entire wardrobe you are dying to have money to take home with you.
This is the area I’m going to put all the things I find when I’m dead broke but dying for something new. I’ll stash them here, for safekeeping, hopefully avoiding the whole not feeling inspired thing. Some stuff may feel vague to you but for me it has some meaning, however cryptic. Possibly by looking through my stuff you’ll also feel some type of inspiration. Feel free to comment when you do. You never know who you may be helping.
by Lucy | Mar 13, 2015 | Blog, Lucy's Sewing Lab
It’s the world wide web….obviously there are more resources out there than anyone can use. I did a version of this blog when I first started sewing. My opinion of the best sewing blogs has evolved. This is an update to that list from last year. In no particular order, of course.
- Colette– more information than can be taken in, great blog
- The Renegade Seamstress– great tutorials
- Daily Seam– always new information
- Fitting– a textbook online
- Clothing Patterns 101 – this site is amazing because they show you how to modify patterns to your specificity.
- Unsung Sewing Patterns– trip through the decades
- Sewing Parts Online – videos of everything any seamstress wannabe could desire
- Sewing In No Mans Land– Great site for everyone in the family. I especially love the box pleat skirt.
- Olfa – Great projects and articles using their products. I LOVE my Olfa rotary cutter.
- Cloth Habit– lingerie information….great info and lots of it!
- FREE classes from Craftsy, download them and hoard them. Their classes are not usually free.
- FREE patterns– Actually if you didn’t want to buy patterns, she has most things you would want on her site.
- Girl Charlee– This is my very favorite place to buy knit fabric! Okay, honestly I’ve only shopped at this online store. But, I love it! The prices and quality are amazing compared to Joann’s and Hancock Fabric, which are my only other choices.
- Simplicity– Perfect site for storing your fabric and pattern stash. A wonderful reference when you are shopping and cannot remember what you need and what you have.
- Threads Magazine– So, you’re at home and need inspiration or just want to learn new things? I love this site for that reason.
- Mood– I just discovered this one and feel like there is more information than I’ll ever be able to get bored with, they also sell fabric.
- My Pintrest– This probably has the most information of all the sites I’ve listed. It will carry you from beginner to infinity!
- Melly Sews– Tons and tons of tutorials and how to’s
- Inspiration– For those days you want to create because you have this fabric….welll, this site will help on determining what to create.
- Best Sewing Machine Reviews– Unbiased opinions
Of course, this is not all inclusive. Maybe, I’ll choose a blog a week or so to review? Enjoy yourself with this list, I sure do!
![Sewing Tricks and Techniques]()
by Lucy | Mar 13, 2015 | Blog, Lucy's Sewing Lab, Tools and Technique
One of the best parts of sewing is learning to use new tools and techniques. A few months ago I found oodles and oodles of presser feet on Amazon. Since I have only previously used the one that comes with your machine I decided to try just ONE new foot to begin with. In December, I received the gathering foot. Let me tell you, if you do not already have this foot and you sew skirts, do yourself a favor and order it! This thing is amazing. You just put your fabric in the little slit and it gathers for you! No more broken thread or messy looking gathering…
Since then, I’ve expanded and purchased the set pictured above. The names of the feet are below and the name is highlighted, click on it. There should be a tutorial video for the use of the foot. ENJOY!
Presser Feet
Top Row
- Cording Foot
- Low Shank Snap-On Ankle
- Blind Hem Foot
- Buttonhole Foot
- seam guide
- Quilting Bar
Bottom Row
- Zig-Zag Foot
- Straight Stitch Foot
- Overcast Foot
- Zipper Foot
- Rolled Hem Foot
- Button Sewing Foot.
![Sewing Tricks and Techniques]()
by Lucy | Mar 12, 2015 | Blog, Inspiration
I wonder who decides what’s flattering on a woman. Is it a woman or a man? Nevertheless, this topic has been addressed on the internet a few times recently.
This is one example of a flattering pattern, or so they say. This and ten others were featured in this article http://thedailyseam.com/10-modern-sewing-patterns-flatter-women/ I can see how the triangle could be very flattering. It points to the wearers face, frames her boobs, and distracts from the tummy. WINNER….I’ll be making this in the near future without a doubt. Who doesn’t like a few good styling tips?
- muumuus make you look bigger
- too many visual horizontal lines chop you up
- busty girls shouldn’t wear shirts with collars
Amazon sells various books on the topic. I have my eye on one myself, this one tells the reader how to dress a real woman.
I would buy this book. I think anyone who makes their own clothing should know more about how to make them fit properly. If you can read and cook, there are very simple patterns out there. But, sewing doesn’t make it look good on different people. Proper fit and style hold the key to looking glam or ghastly. The book seems fairly good, covering topics from fit to fabric selection. Dressmaking for Real Women is on my must have list.
The internet claims there are three dresses that look great on every woman. Even if these dresses are not your choice the basic guidelines may help you look your best! Dresses should hit the knee or fall above, have minimal frills, and fabric with Lycra looks good and feels comfy.
- Flared pants, with the perfect fit. They should fit well around the butt and flare at the knee. When paired with a close fitting top the flare balances out the body
- Monochromatic looks always flatter. Darker colors look the best, but that doesn’t mean only wearing black.
- Florals add color. The smaller florals are easier to pull off.
- Color blocking on tops and dresses in a asymmetrical manner
- Boho Prints in flowing tops. scarves, and dresses.
![Sewing Tricks and Techniques]()
by Lucy | Mar 12, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation, Lucy's Sewing Lab
I had been working with knits for about six months when I finished this skirt. I felt very accomplished. For the first time ever, people liked my product and commented about how much they liked it. I felt FAMOUS! Let me tell you, this didn’t happen overnight. Lots of things can go wrong when sewing with knit fabric. Hopefully my mishaps will be a blessing in disguise and help you avoid those same issues.
1. Knit can be two way or four way stretch. This doesn’t really matter, it all stretches right? I used to think that too. Then I spent about an hour or two making the ultimate tee shirt. It looked amazing! But, I sewed it with the stretch going vertical instead of horizontal. In case you’ve never made this mistake, it means I couldn’t fit into the shirt. It had no stretch at all in the areas that need to stretch. But, I could probably pull it down far enough to wear it as a dress. Funny, unless it’s your shirt. haha
2. Leggings work best in a four way stretch. Yes, you can make pants to your heart’s delight in two way stretch fabric. But, chances are the knees will bag throughout the day. No, that is in no way flattering. A four way stretch ensures the fabric maintains a proper fit all over your legs. It looks very professional. Maybe no one will even know you made them yourself. Okay seriously, no one will consider you made it yourself unless you tell them.
3. Heming Isn’t really an issue, or so they say. Most people do not hem their knit garments. To me, this never really made sense. I don’t find clothing at the GAP that is not hemmed. So, I have always hemmed my garments. I’ve tried several ways.
- Rolled hem, this is a hem created using a rolled hem or cording foot. This works well for some knits. I have found it works best with those containing a little rayon. I tried it recently with jersey. This did not work so well.
- Double hem, is primarily used in the ready to wear industry. Lots of articles and websites will tell you this cannot be done without a double needle. Simply not true! I have done them since day one with my normal sewing machine. When it’s time to hem use the standard 5/8″ seam, then go over it again using the 3/8″ seam. The same look is achieved. Now, when you tell people, because you will want them to know, you made this. They will not believe you! Added BONUS, no extra equipment required.
- Cut edge hem, again this is one I do not use because I’ve never seen it in ready to wear and it makes me self conscious. If you like it or need to put that just finished garment on and head out for the evening. By all means do it. It is a time saver for sure. This would probably be easiest to get away with when using tissue knits.
by Lucy | Mar 11, 2015 | Blog, Experimentation
UPDATE: This jeans blog was previously published on WordPress.com. Since the time of this blog I have completed a pair I’m pretty satisfied with. I need to get back in there and perfect it though. The fit is perfect, I have since purchased jean topstitching thread and Levi’s buttons. I have produced the perfect fit for me in a distressed jean short/cut off. I love them. There is nothing in the world better than a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Please continue reading and I’ll write a new post on this topic soon.
Jeans, who ever thinks about them? As Americans we purchase them, wear them, break them in, break them down, wear them out, and then discard or recycle them. This search began with my penny pinching ways. I refuse to pay three times the cost it takes to make a pair of pants!
So, we know the rest of the story. For weeks I have been studying the construction, fit, and trademark qualities of jeans. I started with a legging pattern I liked. From that point I’ve added appropriate top stitching, yoke, and back pockets. My Goal is to draft a pattern specific to my needs. This will become the LUCY LOU….as time and trends pass, the pattern will get updates. The basic fit will remain the same.
At this point, I’m very close to the finished product. Isn’t it ironic, my jeans won’t be complete until the appropriate distressing and personal touches occur? What began as a simple leggings pattern has transformed into fake or faux jeans. It has been a fun and enlightening process. I would be lying if I said it was quick.
I have learned several things:
- the pattern doesn’t make it jeans, the topstitching does
- a golden tan thread looks best with dark denim
- yokes….jeans must have a yoke. I’m not sure the purpose other than to allow room for your butt
- making back pockets is quite easy
- front pockets require a different type of lightweight cotton to line them. (mine don’t have any front pockets right now …. that could change)
- my pattern is out of stock although there are loads of other leggings patterns out there that I am sure could be altered into the perfect jeans for anyone
Well, it’s time to get back to the studio. Until next time….ENJOY!
![Sewing Tricks and Techniques]()
by Lucy | Mar 11, 2015 | Blog, Lucy's Sewing Lab, Reviews
I’m not exactly a newbie to the sewing world. But, today I attempted Simplicity 1716. Wow! I cannot wrap my head around it. Sew, this one will be in the “to be completed” file. I love the way it looks. I probably just need to dive in and see what happens. I really didn’t get very far because the instructions were not making sense to me for the outcome expected. That’s where I get messed up every time. I think I know what’s coming next or the method to use. In all actuality if I act like I’ve never sewn before I would probably breeze through it.
The plain cowl neck options are probably really quite simple. But, I’m down for the challenge. I’m shooting for view B. I’ll let you know when it’s completed.
