Sew much to Learn

Sew much to learn, no matter how much I sew.  I learned this weekend children grow at amazing rates.  I measured my granddaughter less than a month ago.  I used those measurements to make her a very special dress.  She couldn’t get it over her head with a zipper!  I designed a top and skirt for her using the same measurements, it fit PERFECTLY!

[envira-gallery id="1650"]
[envira-gallery slug="1650"]

The Princess themed double peplum dress took me about 8 hours to make and about 10 seconds to try on then refashion.  The Van Gogh ensemble took less than 4 hours to design according to her measurements, cut out, and sew.  It, as you can see, fits perfectly!

I don’t know how to feel about this, do we design or use other’s designs? Even when I sew using a pattern, I do not go exactly by the pattern.  I always add some, glitz or glam.  For instance, the orange layer of the peplum, is covered in pink glitter!  When designing for myself or adult daughter we also have must haves in our clothing.  I’m a huge boho fan. So even simple tops end up with boho twist.  She has a nice booty, the things I design for her highlight her assets.  Most of my designs come from knowing the person.  As I’ve said a million times before, style is so much more than fashion.

[envira-gallery id="1655"]
[envira-gallery slug="1655"]

From this photo of me in my wedding dress I made pre sewing machine, you can tell I have a style!  No, I don’t don myself in tulle daily or sequins, at least not that much.  Whatever you sew or wear, ENJOY!

Budding Designers

Budding Designers

Budding designers begin young,I don’t know about you, but as a child, a very young child, I was a budding designer. I always had paper and crayons or pencils to quickly sketch whatever it was in my head I thought someone may want to buy. Not only was I designer, my grandmother sewed. Double bonus! I think it up, put it on paper, and my grandma makes it a reality. I remember they had those little plastic forms you could color over and create something wonderful. Wonderful and just like everyone else’s. How boring! I did nt want to be that person making the same thing everyone else made. I wanted to be the girl with all original clothing. Funny thing is, now that I make my own clothes, I color the pattern the same way I want the garment to look in the end. Also at that time I can change the sleeves, the skirt, anything I don’t like about the pattern.There is a new line of products like this for children.

Crayola Catwalk House Of Fashion

Perfect for the catwalk designer

All these toys are perfect for the budding designer to design rock, glam, catwalk, hollywood, and house of fashion designs.

I’m not sure how kids would like these, but I am pretty sure I would need to buy some for me to try out.  You know, nothing is worse than disappointing children on Christmas. Besides, I may come up with new designs.  This does not mean I will be giving up on using paper and pencil sketches.  I just means I want to try the newest toys!  ENJOY

 

 

Sewing Hacks #2

I know, I said I would finish this the next day.  I am sorry I didn’t make it back to do that.  I was working on some sewing of my own.  Yes, I used my sewing hacks.  I always hem everything before assembling! Honestly, the method I mentioned of putting sleeves into shirts….why would I use any other method?  When it works, why fix it?  So, we have knits and fitting left to discuss don’t we?

Well, I thought I was much more experienced in these two topics prior to a few searches on the internet.  As I’ve mentioned before, I cut my sewing needles on knits in the 80’s.  I grew up in the country and didn’t want to waste my precious money on the 30 minute drive to the store to buy cool clothes for a Saturday night, Wednesday, Monday, any night!  At that time the cut up tee-shirt look was in full force. Sewing a knit dress with the back cut down to there was not really a big deal. Plus, it didn’t use much fabric either. LOL [envira-gallery id="792"]
[envira-gallery slug="leopard"]

The first hack I learned was knit does not ravel!  Yay! Wooo hoooo……it’s like Christmas everyday!  You do not have to hem it unless it’s the look you want.  Casual dresses and tops can stand on their own, without hemming. The leopard print top above isn’t hemmed anywhere, neckline, sleeves, or bottom.  It is a rayon blend, so that helps. Knits with more spandex tend to curl.  If that works with your look, more power to you!  Save time!

Fitting hacks are a whole new ballgame.  I worked super hard on making a full bootie (butt) adjustment.  Beginners luck, it worked perfectly!  Then, I could not make it work again for anything!  I found a great tutorial on the internet. The seam alteration method, basically the extra fabric is added on the top seam.  It really does work, I am sure I was just concentrating too hard the second time I did it.  Because, the first time worked like a charm.

The most useful hack I’ve found for pants fitting is to use a different pattern.  Not all patterns fit each individual body type.  Well, whether, you are making dresses, t shirts, or pants please make sure you ENJOY!

Sewing Hacks (learned from trial and error)

 [envira-gallery id="784"]
[envira-gallery slug="784"]

What are some special sewing hacks you’ve learned?  My most important ones are the ones I taught myself. Seriously, every time I sew I learn something new. That’s how much I mess up. lol We can never learn so much about sewing that there is nothing more to learn.  That’s why the pattern companies keep making patterns.  The amount of knowledge is endless and more is being discovered daily.

My first week returning to sewing, I wanted to make a GAP like tee shirt.  I found the perfect pattern, except for the sleeves.  I did not know how to do an inset sleeve.  I have no idea how I escaped learning this.  I really wanted that shirt though.  So, I followed the pattern. I actually did it, on the first try!  Then, I searched for other methods.  The best sewing hack I learned is how to sew the sleeve into the garment flat.  No inset required.  Just match all the dots, notches, and whatever else, then sew it to the shirt.  Next sew the sleeve together and the side seam.  You cannot tell the difference and it takes less than 1/2 the time.  There’s a really good tutorial here.

Scissors are quite possibly one of the more expensive mainstays required for sewing.  I bought my first pair in a sewing kit.  I honestly thought they would be awesome because they were new.  Yeah, they were great, until I could buy some better ones about a week later.  Never use your fabric scissors on paper or anything else other than fabric.  It really dulls them.  Once they are dull, you don’t have to buy a brand new pair.  You don’t even have to buy a sharpener.  Nope!  Use this sewing hack,cut through several layers of foil. Works like a charm!

You will appreciate this thread sewing hack. Thread really annoys me.  Probably one of my biggest pet peeves.  That stuff is required for sewing.  Buying off brand thread really does not pay off in the long run.  I promise Coats and Clark is the only one I use.  I have purchased other threads and nothing is more frustrating than having it break every few seconds.  UGGGHHHHHH!  Although, not having a color to match your project is pretty bad.  And it never happens to me anymore.  Why? I use 50 shades of grey! Really only about three or four shades, but unless you are topstitching, grey is the perfect color. 🙂

I have severe ADD and by the time I finish making something, I am done.  I hate doing hems.  So, I found a way around that. Sew the hems in all sleeves and bottoms before sewing anything else.  Then when you finish construction, your garment is also finished.

I know, the chalkboard says knits and fitting but I am sure you are tired of reading, so that will have to wait till tomorrow.  Until then, ENJOY!

 

Budding Designers

Knits, Stripes, and RTW

This is a repost of an earlier blog. Actually one of my earliest blogs, a little rewriting and possibly this time people enjoy it!

I sewed with knit six months upon completing the striped skirt. What an accomplishment.  For the first time ever, people liked my product and commented about how much they liked it.  I felt FAMOUS!  Let me tell you, this didn’t happen overnight.  Lots of things can go wrong when sewing with knit fabric. Hopefully my mishaps will be a blessing in disguise and help you avoid those same issues.Screen Shot 2015-03-11 at 1.56.19 PM

1. Knit can be two way or four way stretch.  This doesn’t really matter, it all stretches right?  I thought  that too.  Then I spent about an hour or two making the ultimate tee shirt.  It looked amazing!  But, I sewed it with the stretch going vertical instead of horizontal.  In case you’ve never made this mistake, it means I couldn’t fit into the shirt.  It had no stretch at all in the areas that need to stretch.  But, I could probably pull it down far enough to wear it as a dress.  Funny, unless it’s your shirt.  haha

2. Leggings wear best in a four way stretch. Yes, you can make pants to your heart’s delight in two way stretch fabric.  But, chances are the knees will bag throughout the day.  Unflattering?  YES!  A four way stretch ensures the fabric maintains a proper fit all over your legs.  So professional, no one guesses you sewed the legings.  Okay seriously, no one will consider you made it yourself unless you tell them.

3. Heming Isn’t really an issue, or so they say.  Most people do not hem their knit garments.  To me, this never really made sense.  I don’t find clothing at the GAP that is not hemmed. So, I have always hemmed my garments.  I’ve tried several ways.

UPDATE: If the knit is spandex and rayon blend, no hem is needed.  Similar clothing sells in department stores and boutiques upwards of $4o!

  1. Rolled hem, created using a rolled hem or cording foot.  This works well for some knits.  I have found it works best with those containing a little rayon.  I tried it recently with jersey.  This did not work so well.
  2. Double hem, is primarily used in the ready to wear industry.  Lots of articles and websites will tell you this cannot be done without a double needle.  Simply not true!  I have done them since day one with my normal sewing machine.  When it’s time to hem use the standard 5/8″ seam, then go over it again using the 3/8″ seam.  The same look is achieved. Now, when you tell people, because you will want them to know, you made this.  They will not believe you!  Added BONUS, no extra equipment required.
  3. Cut edge hem, again this is one I do not use because I’ve never seen it in ready to wear and it makes me self conscious.  If you like it or need to put that just finished garment on and head out for the evening.  By all means do it.  It is a time saver for sure.  This would probably be easiest to get away with when using tissue knits.

No matter what the hem, ENJOY!

Lucy Does Lingerie

My love and quest for perfect lingerie began a few months ago.  I made this stretch gauze dress.  I love it!  But, fewer people probably loved seeing my undergarments.  LOL  Just kidding, I rigged some undergarments to make the dress “work” for the event.  Thank goodness it was not anything like an 8 hour workday.  A friend who was also at the same event mentioned not being able to find a slip either. Nothing quite like perfectly fitting lingerie.  My mind ultimately went where every seamstress’ mind goes, “I can make that!”  This lead to a Pinterest board, a research frenzy, and an impromptu purchase of fabric at an actual store instead of online. The best lingerie fabric is not found locally for me.

I picked up some Tricot and a couple of patterns.  I was very excited to get started.  In case you didn’t know, it’s best not to wash lingerie fabric prior to sewing.  Which worked out great for me!  I was kind of anxious to get started.  I learned one thing really fast.  This is not the fabric I wanted to use for lingerie.  The amount of stretch is minimal.  I drafted my own pattern from tap pants I already own.  They fit nothing the same due to the type of fabric.  Back to the drawing board so to speak.  I’ve now narrowed down my online sources for lingerie fabric.  Tricot in a fabric store does not mean the same thing as in a lingerie store. Gertie suggests using microstretch jersey OR venezia stretch lining for lingerie.

One of my favorite fabric stores online carries Venecia Stretch ITY Jersey Knit, perfect for lingerie.  Which makes me pretty happy because the fabric is $4.98 a yard.  Fabric.com also suggests using chiffon tricot.  It may look great in lingerie but at this point I am not a fan of chiffon.  The fabric requires a great deal of patience due to the amount of fraying.  Stretch lace is another option.  This is a fabric I have used and LOVE so much.  It’s very soft and also stretches.  It’s probably not the choice for all lingerie, but there are times when it’s the perfect choice.  According to a site I found, I believe my next choice will be nylon chiffon.  The site suggests using tissue paper between the layers of fabric when sewing.

If you have not used tissue paper in sewing yet, you are in for a treat. Use the tissue paper to cover the cutting board.  Then cut through the tissue as well as the fabric.  It helps a lot! Then sewing through the fabric as well as the tissue prevents slipping.  I don’t know about you, but I’ll be sewing my lingerie up in tissue knit or ITY knit a few times before jumping into the fancier fabrics. I like sleeping in those and since the slip I need will be visible the knit is a great solution for me. I’ll post any lingerie I make.  I’m sorry, I will not be modeling it, the hanger will! 🙂  No matter what you sew, ENJOY!